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The New Rolexes Are Almost Here: We Asked 9 Watch-World Insiders for Their Predictions

At last year’s Watches and Wonders Geneva, Rolex shocked dealers, press, and collectors by unveiling a slew of whimsical models—three Oyster Perpetuals with lacquer dials featuring colorful bubbles and three Day-Date 36 models with jigsaw puzzle dials and emoji date wheels—that almost no one saw coming.

This year, the conventional wisdom is that the Crown will return to its, well, conventional approach: introducing timepieces that feature incremental changes, visually imperceptible to all but the most discerning collectors.

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Robb Report asked a cohort of Rolex lovers—a mix of pre-owned sellers, collectors, and auctioneers—to weigh in with more specific predictions. Based on the comments below, an updated Rolex GMT-Master II “Coke” reference (featuring a distinctive black and red bezel) may well be the brand’s big reveal. A new Submariner and precious metal variations of the Daytona would also be in line with expectations. A few people also made it clear that, hope against hope, the Crown would see fit to unveil a new Milgauss.

But can we expect anything as wild and wacky as last year? Probably not, though to Joshua Ganjei’s point below, the brand has perfected the art of opacity.

“Rolex are experts at keeping secrets,” says Ganjei, CEO and head curator of European Watch Company. “The truth is, nobody knows what Rolex is going to do, ever.”

William Massena, founder of Massena LAB

Rolex 1908 Collection
Rolex 1908 Collection

My bet is that Grandpa Rolex will go back to what it knows best: introducing an improved version of an existing model on the Oyster line. The surprise might occur with the new 1908 collection—I would not be surprised if they added some references there and expanded the line.

Finally, the use of titanium in the Oyster Professional collection will be something that many observers will be looking for (but Rolex is known to be rather slow when it comes to evolving and expanding that line).

Paul Boutros, Phillips’ deputy chairman and head of watches, Americas

Rainbow Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Rainbow Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

Rolex will reintroduce the Rolex Daytona Rainbow, fitted with 2023’s caliber 4131. This time, they’ll offer it as an off-catalog model, with an option of a champlevé enamel dial—the technique used for last year’s Day-Date “Puzzle”—surrounding its gold crystal subdials.

Eugene Tutunikov, CEO of SwissWatchExpo

In 2024, the anticipation surrounding Rolex releases is high, with expectations for a blend of predictability and innovation. Building upon the previous year’s trend of emoji-themed watches, 2024 could witness a shift towards revitalizing Rolex’s timeless classics with innovative materials and vibrant color schemes. This could entail introducing new hues to traditional models or experimenting with novel materials to enhance durability and aesthetic appeal.

One of the most significant events in the Rolex timeline is the 70th anniversary of the GMT-Master, which debuted in 1954. This milestone is likely to be commemorated with special releases and editions that pay homage to the iconic timepiece. Given Rolex’s penchant for exclusivity and luxury, enthusiasts can expect to see exciting variations of the GMT-Master, possibly incorporating precious metals like gold or platinum.

Rolex "Coke" GMT-Master II Ref. 16710
Rolex "Coke" GMT-Master II Ref. 16710

A new iteration of the GMT-Master II is anticipated, possibly featuring a revived version of the beloved red/black “Coke” bezel. This iconic design element may receive a modern twist, such as being crafted in a precious metal that hasn’t been utilized before, adding a fresh dimension to the classic aesthetic.

I also foresee a new watch to commemorate the Rolex Submariner that was first unveiled at Baselworld in 1954. Again, a variation of precious metals might be added to the mix such as platinum. I’m also hoping for an element of surprise—perhaps a hint of red text adorning the dial, which hasn’t been seen since the ’70s.

Henry Flores, founder of the Classic Watch Club in New York City

Maybe Rolex will release a “Coke” GMT with a black and red bezel and discontinue the “Pepsi.” I’ve heard anecdotally through some authorized dealers that they’ve hardly seen any Pepsi GMTs come through their doors last year or the first quarter of this year.

They may streamline all GMT cases to be more like the Submariner’s case and add a rainbow Daytona in the new case style.

Paul Altieri, founder and CEO of Bob’s Watches

We could see an updated Rolex GMT-Master II “Coke” reference 126710BLRO [a “Pepsi” version of the model is pictured below] at Watches & Wonders. The current-gen model with the black and red “Coca-Cola” bezel has been around since 2018, putting it near the typical six- to seven-year Rolex product cycle for refreshes.

Rolex "Pepsi" GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLRO
Rolex "Pepsi" GMT-Master II Ref. 126710BLRO

Don’t expect any dramatic aesthetic departures from the beloved bi-color bezel look. But Rolex may update the movement with a new caliber offering extended power reserve or other technical enhancements. An increased case size from 40 mm to better align with modern 41 mm models like the Submariner is also possible, though I doubt they’d stray too far from the classic Coke formula.

As a pillar of Rolex’s lineup, you can count on refinements versus any radical overhaul of this icon. But a new Coke variant would definitely generate buzz as a highlight release. The GMT collection is hugely important, so Rolex will be careful while aiming to improve the product. An updated Coke would be a major unveiling.

Giovanni Prigigallo, co-founder of EveryWatch

I do not anticipate Rolex making a habit of releasing unconventional watches like the Emoji Day-Date or the Celebrations dial on the Oyster Perpetual. As usual, Rolex aims to maintain an element of unpredictability in their releases, so offering similar pieces would be out of character for the brand.

Rolex "Starbucks" Submariner Ref. 126610LV
Rolex “Starbucks” Submariner Ref. 126610LV

Instead, I expect Rolex to shift its attention back to its timeless classics. I wouldn’t be surprised to see an evolution in the Submariner, as it has been a while since its last update. Likewise, the GMT line may see some exciting innovations. There have been longstanding rumors about the challenges in producing the Pepsi Bezel, so it wouldn’t be unexpected if Rolex decides to discontinue this model and introduce something fresh in its place.

Finally, my wish for this year is that Rolex, following the discontinuation of the current version, releases a new Milgauss inspired by the original reference 6541! Such a move would mark a fantastic return to its iconic classics!

Eddie Goziker, president of Wrist Aficionado

Firstly, I believe Rolex will finally bring back the highly anticipated GMT-Master II “Coke” with its iconic black and red bezel. Fans have been clamoring for its return, and Rolex seems ready to deliver, especially considering the rumored patent they filed for the black/red ceramic bezel.

Moreover, we may see the discontinuation of the left-handed GMT-Master II “Sprite,” as Rolex is known for its conservative approach and likely won’t keep a funky left-handed watch in their catalogue for long. Or, maybe, they’ll flip it back to a regular right-handed watch.

Rolex "Sprite" GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR
Rolex GMT-Master II Ref. 126720VTNR

Moving on to the Daytona, I foresee the new model to herald the return of the meteorite dial, reminiscent of the very popular meteorite dial that was recently discontinued. Additionally, Rolex may introduce gold Daytona models with colorful dials, which would be a refreshing change from the current monochromatic designs. Colorful Daytonas have been popular so it makes sense Rolex will bring them back to push precious metal Daytona sales.

For the Submariner and Sea-Dweller collections, we are hoping Rolex finally introduces steel models with the Oysterflex bracelet, fulfilling the wishes of sports enthusiasts seeking a rubber-clad waterproof option. Another possibility is a rose gold Submariner with a green dial, perhaps in the popular olive shade. Alternatively, we would love to see a white gold “Hulk” variant, a “Hulk 2.0” if you will.

Joshua Ganjei, CEO and head curator of European Watch Company

With the reintroduced Pepsi already out for a number of years, it seems logical for a “Coke,” or black and red, bezel GMT. Both vintage references are highly popular.

Rolex Daytona Ref. 126529LN
Rolex Le Mans Daytona Ref. 126529LN

We can always expect some new dials or bracelet options on existing models as these are easy manufacturing modifications that can generate substantial sales. We also expect some surprising discontinuations — perhaps the black dial Le Mans Daytona, or the titanium Deepsea Challenge. These were iconic introductions and a sudden discontinuation will send a shockwave through the market.

Geoff Hess, Sotheby’s head of watches for the Americas and founder of RollieFest

I predict Rolex this year will remain loyal to its unparalleled track record of consistency and will focus on making only incremental and slight changes to current models. I think we’ll see their tried-and-true formulas in full force, with only modest modifications to existing designs to make the product minimally better.

When it comes to innovation we typically think of large, dramatic alterations, but far more than in recent years, I believe the Rolex product this season will remain largely the same, and consistently great, but with only slight enhancements to the current lineup.

Like no other brand, Rolex has found a way to make mass-produced luxury timepieces appear truly rare, and in turn, they become instantly coveted. New product is typically somewhat predictable for them, and always consistent. Accordingly, the brand is protected from market mistakes. In this exciting time of year for our hobby, Rolex will present an evolution, not a revolution.

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