Vaquera RTW Spring 2024

“Does it really matter?”

That was the question hanging over the Vaquera show — or at least its show notes — as the New York-based duo of Patric DiCaprio and Bryn Taubensee presented their convention-challenging spring collection.

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They offered barely there pieces including bondage-style cage bras and leotards, nude fishnet body stockings with a hint of golden glimmer, and lots of ass-less options on coats, chaps and cutout biker shorts.

The models skulked and stomped and fought for space on the runway in what has become Vaquera’s take-no-prisoners signature style.

To say they play with proportions undercuts how they bounced between the nearly naked looks and volume so extreme models whacked the audience members with their magnificently billowing body tents of stone washed denim and faux fur. They sharpened their construction chops on cracked white leather in solid trenches, cargo pants, cropped bombers and bustier T-shirts.

Sailor looks and babydoll dresses carried through from collections past; Taubensee said the brand is trying to establish core Vaquera looks and pieces that are commercially viable to balance with the more outré items.

They’ve developed a cult following and are clear on their unique place in the market. “We’re doing something that isn’t replaceable in a way,” DiCaprio said. “Either you get it or you don’t, and it’s like…you get it from us or nobody.”

DiCaprio said the grounding query was less nihilistic and more a nod to self confidence. They were thinking about what people remember and focus on, and it tends to be the scandalous aspects, including nudity. Janet Jackson at the Super Bowl was an inspiration.

When a bikini top constructed from sunglass lenses slipped up, leaving a model’s breast exposed, was it intentional or a nip slip? Twenty years ago it caused a stir — in today’s do-what-you-want world and with sheer everywhere, it doesn’t really matter.

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Launch Gallery: Vaquera RTW Spring 2024

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