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The shirt that will make your wardrobe feel like new

'A well-ironed collarless shirt will get you past most doors,' says Lisa (from left: Jodie Comer, Victoria Beckham and Cate Blanchett)
'A well-ironed collarless shirt will get you past most doors,' says Lisa (from left: Jodie Comer, Victoria Beckham and Cate Blanchett)

While covering some of the recent cruise shows that take place in all climates these days, I discovered that a good-quality collarless shirt is the answer to a lot of dress code mysteries. I do mean mysteries.

At various events, guests were advised to dress ‘Relaxed Casual’, ‘Fashion Casual’, ‘Cocktail Casual…’

Interpretations may vary but what I found is that a well-ironed collarless shirt will get you past most doors. A couple of years ago, I bought a pale-blue linen one with a faint Prince of Wales check from a small, half-British label called Leto Paros while I was on holiday on Paros. I know. Holiday shopping. But at that time, perfect casual linen shirts were hard to find and I knew I’d wear it on every summer vacation from then on (letoparis.com doesn’t transact from its website unfortunately, but you can call them, or use this as an excuse to holiday there). Anyway, the shirt: it’s loose, straight and well cut, oversized without looking comedic. The linen is gorgeous – and that’s everything.

What I didn’t expect was for it to work as well back home. A lot of that has to do with its grandad collar. It defies categories. It’s a cool, un-dress shirt, good on its own but sits comfortably under a jacket with lapels. If you want something that looks crisp but sort of floppy too; something that looks as great on holiday as it will in the office; something that isn’t yet another Breton top, the collarless shirt is it.

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Lisa wears: Cotton-poplin shirt, £165, Sœur; linen trousers, £525, Three Graces; leather sandals, £306, Essen; acetate sunglasses, £99, Jigsaw; grey moonstone and green amethyst earrings, from a selection, By Pariah; Suede bag, £515, Yuzefi; Other jewellery, Lisa’s own 

A collarless shirt gives off Relaxed Sophisticated (that could be a new dress code, come to think of it) and warm-weather vibes. Roll up the sleeves and unbutton the shirt to show some skin. It’s less flouncy than an off-the-shoulder top, more tomboyish. I wear mine loose over slim trousers, or tucked into wider legged jeans, or open over a vest top or (on holiday) a bandeau. If you haven’t found dresses to fall for this summer,  this is a good alternative. If it gets hot, wear it with tailored shorts.

I’ve been noticing collarless shirts everywhere. At Dior’s cruise show in Mexico, there were sensational ones cut from bright red or raspberry silk taffeta, a fabric that holds shape well, designed to look equally stunning with matching tiered maxi skirts or jeans.

The small French fashion chain Sœur, now in the UK, does lovely cotton ones in subtle colour combinations for around £160 – as does the small British label, With Nothing Underneath, for £95. You can also find great linen ones in Toast and in the M&S men’s department.

Issue Twelve’s is a perfect cut, and perfect dusty pink – £360. On Jermyn Street in Mayfair, Emma Willis makes impeccable bespoke blouses, from £290-400, depending on the fabric. A high ticket fora shirt but, if you have money to spare, maybe it’s well spent on something you’ll wear and wear.

For a complementary low-key make-up look, Merit’s The Minimalist Perfecting Complexion Stick is for those of us who don’t want a foundation in summer, but sometimes need selective coverage.

Try these...

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Clockwise from top left: Linen, £40, Marks & Spencer; Cotton, £360, Issue Twelve; Organic cotton, £95, With Nothing Underneath; Linen, £145, Toast; Linen, £290, Emma Willis; Ecovero viscose, £69, Cos 

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The Minimalist Perfecting Complexion Stick, £40, Merit


More from Lisa Armstrong: Scarlett Johansson: At 14 I was told my face looked like the surface of a volcano

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