Shangguan Zhe was again influenced this season by Mont Kailash, a sacred mountain in China. At Sankuanz, he mixed traditional silhouettes from Tibet with more modern Western design, resulting in a luxurious collection with a strong streetwear vibe.
Nodding to classical Chinese garments were the loose, roomy shapes. Tibetan robe draping was at the heart of jackets, coats and sweatshirts with twisted details, such as cross and wrapped collars.
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Zhe morphed M65 field jacket shapes and suiting with asymmetric cuts. A Perfetto’s zipper ran along a side, and one sleeve came half hidden. This was worn with roomy black trousers. The look echoed in distressed denim and in camo, to different effects.
More dressed up was a red ankle-length dress with rich, asymmetric draping.
This collection for men and women was full of brown, olive, blue and black, nodding to early Eastern religion’s veneration for nature.
Zhe worked with South Korean tattoo artist and illustrator Miki Kim, whose Human Orchid Mantis series appeared on T-shirts, sweatshirts and trousers.
A dagger form graced zippers and drawstrings, also lending its shape to cowboy boots and mule toes. Dagger motifs feature in Sankuanz’s jewelry collection out for fall, too.
The slouchy boots are being introduced, while Zhe added new styles of his signature Bumpy sneaker.
Launch Gallery: Sankuanz RTW Fall 2024
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