“My collections have always started from my life informing my collections and not really the circus of fashion informing my life. I was thinking about that, and it’s probably for the best. I thought about how something starts and how it evolves; that’s why I wanted to shoot it here,” Marina Moscone said during a preview of her fall collection, pointing out its look book imagery captured as behind-the-scenes moments in her Midtown showroom and atelier.
She took the same approach to her collection, returning to and studying her pillars and silhouettes that have evolved and worked for the brand over time. Subtly recontextualized classics included signature basque cinched tailoring, in a new cape jacket silhouette; bias slipdresses; pretty dresses and capes with twisted details; cowl-backs, or subtle knit trims, done in a light gauzy wool cotton or medium weight wool instead of her usual slick satins.
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“It’s more tactile, more textural, less codified in terms of silhouette — there’s a softness to the hand, is a little bit warmer but the texture is still there but with less shine. I think it’s still open to any kind of context,” she said of the styles, which also applied to her cozy double-face wool-cashmere Cocoon coats and new alpaca sherpa outerwear.
The lineup was print-free and focused on grounded colors derived from her inspirations: white, black, navy and pale rose via British painter Cecily Brown’s paintings recently shown at The Metropolitan Museum of Art, and “weird ivy greens” (and architecture style) from Italian architect Piero Portaluppi.
Beyond twisted details, Moscone tapped into the spirit of Lynda Benglis’ twisted organic sculptures to bring forth the collection’s most exciting, playful textures, a la artisanal swing dresses and matching turbino and bandeau sets with long fringes crafted from embroidered rolled tubes of silk organza-voile. Shot it motion, it was almost as if they were (high fashion) sea anemone.
Moscone’s approach to her quintessential clean-meets-arty aesthetic with a “warmer” and tactile hand proved that marching to the beat of her own fashion drum works well.
Launch Gallery: Marina Moscone Fall 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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