Emerging from the dead of winter is akin to a butterfly coming out of its cocoon. After breaking free from its shell, it becomes something entirely new; something free. Judging by the transition from the collection he debuted last February for fall and winter to the one he created for warmer weather to come, it seems that Brandon Maxwell has gone through a type of chrysalis of his own.
While last season’s show featured structured silhouettes in leather and wool, Maxwell’s spring 2024 designs were much more fluid. Standout pieces included transparent, bias-cut maxi skirts paired with oversized knits, and tops and dresses that mirrored the look of flowing capes in poppy reds and mustard yellows. I also loved the opening ensemble: a white maxi dress with a high cowl neck. It was the breath of fresh air I didn’t know I needed.
Outerwear in the collection—both suiting and leather jackets—also featured spliced sleeves so they could be worn as capes. And while there were also jackets of the more traditional variety, Maxwell makes it clear that these styles may be classics in their own right, but they are most certainly not boring.
The collection also featured plenty of smart, tailored pieces, some of which were also made to be worn as capes. These pieces are meant for the woman on the move—the one who can’t be bothered to do more than throw her jackets over her shoulders. Even the way an oversized V-neck sweater was styled with a button-down shirt—just off-the-shoulder enough to feel unintentional—felt cool and effortless. As for the bottoms? Denim and leather pants with frayed edges reigned supreme.
There was also beauty in the details—namely, the accessories, which featured bold hardware as accents for the belts and handbags; it was also spotted on the models as jewelry. These embellishments, resembling large knots, added just the right amount of glimmer to otherwise understated outfits.
Bottom line: Brandon Maxwell is making the case to embrace minimalism, and he’s providing his audience with the clothes to do so.
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